FAQ, Problems and Solutions

FAQ's - Tricky Blondes

BRASS COOL-DOWN

Your client has a natural level 5, with less than 10% gray, and she wants to be a true blonde, level 10 or lighter. You used a one step permanent blonde haircolor and the color turned out blonde but brassy.

To correct the situation immediately, hightlight with BW2 Powder Lightener to create a blonde-on-blonde effect. This will tone down the appearance of the too-brassy blonde. Or create an overall pale blonde by applying BW Crème Violet Lightener in an on-the-scalp virgin method of application. Process until a Level 10 contributing pigment of pale yellow is reached. Then tone with Radiance Color Gloss 10N.

Note: Liquid and crème lighteners are active for up to 90 minutes. If, after 90 minutes, desired results are not achieved, mix another batch and reapply.

DARK BLONDE HAIR LOOKS DULL AND LACKLUSTER

Your client’s natural haircolor is Lightest Brown-Level 5. She feels her color could use some pizzazz and shine.

An easy answer is glazing after highlighting.

Highlighting

  1. Comb the client’s hair into her usual style.
  2. In a glass or plastic bowl, mix 3 level scoops of BW2000 Powder Lightener with 2-1/2 oz. of 20-volume Pure White Creme Developer. Mix slowly to the desired consistency.
    • Using a foil technique: Apply the BW2000 to hair using the foil technique. Scatter foils randomly throughout the top and side sections of the head.
    • Using a highlighting cap: Apply the BW2000 mixture to strands of hair pulled randomly through holes in the top and side areas of the cap.
  4. Process until strands have reached the yellow stages of lightening.
  5. Rinse and shampoo lightly.

Glazing

  1. Using a plastic applicator bottle, mix:
    • 2 oz. Radiance 10N Lightest Natural Blonde
    • 2 oz. Radiance Color Infuser
  2. Apply Radiance formula to damp hair from roots to ends, throughout the entire head.
  3. Process 5 minutes at room temperature.
  4. Rinse until water runs clear.

RETURN TOO-BLONDE HAIR TO NATURAL-LOOKING FULL COLOR

Your client loves her blonde hair, but the summer sun has taken its toll. Her once wonderful highlights are all washed out. Her look needs refreshing.

Create lowlights.

  • Consult with your client so that she understands you plan to add depth and dimension to her blonde hair by creating lowlights.
  • Section the areas of the hair to be lowlighted. For example, top right, side right and front, depending on the finished style.
  • Mix Second Nature 136N Light Natural Blonde with equal amounts of 10-volume Pure White Developer in a bowl. (For darker results, select Second Nature 137N Dark Natural Blonde.)
  • Use a back-to-back foil technique. Take thin sections to avoid uneven or spotty results.
  • Process up to 30 minutes. (Strand test periodically.)
  • Rinse, shampoo and condition.

Note: If hair is extremely porous or overlightened, add one cap of Second Nature 141RO Strawberry Blonde without adding additional developer. This will prevent off-tones.

BLONDE IS TOO BRASSY

Your client has a dark Natural Level and she wants to be a true blonde, Level 5 or lighter. But the blonde haircolor turned out brassy.

Highlight with a lightener product to create a blonde-on-blonde effect, or to create an overall pale blonde. Apply or re-apply an on-the-scalp lightener in a virgin method of application. Process until a Level 9 contributing pigment of yellow is reached. Then tone.

Next time, for a Natural Level 5-Lightest Blonde or lighter, select a High-Lift Blonde Shade. For a Natural Level 5 or darker, an on-the-scalp lightener should be used OR slightly lighten the base color (1 or 2 Levels) with permanent color or Luminize to blend with highlights. NOTE: Liquid and creme lighteners are active for up to 90 minutes. If, after 90 minutes, desired results are not achieved, mix another batch and reapply.

VERY LIGHT BLONDE SHOWS DISCOLORATION

A light-blonde client with very porous hair asked for an ash-based toner shade. Result shows green, blue or purplish discoloration.

Because the client’s over-porous hair did not have enough contributing pigment to support the toner, results are off-tone and appear discolored. When this occurs, do not dry the hair as this "sets" off-color tones and makes it more difficult to remove. Instead, rinse color from hair and immediately perform a color removal procedure.

  • Mix 2 oz. of 20-volume developer plus 1 Activator Packette. Add 1 oz. Complements Lightening Gel plus 2-3 pumps shampoo. Apply to discolored areas for 7-10 minutes.
  • Or mix 2 oz. Luminize Clear with 2 oz. Luminize Developer and apply for up to 10 minutes.

Next time, strand test to determine correct color selection and development time. Intermix a neutral or warm shade in the same Level as the selected shade to prevent off-tones.

WHITE HAIR SHOWS GREEN/PURPLE OFF-TONES

A white-haired client tinted light blonde sees green/purple off-tones in the hair.

The color selected was too ash/cool for the percentage of white in the hair.

  • Remix the formula, adding up to 1 oz. of a gold or neutral-based color in the same Level. The overall formula should be at least a Level 8-Light Blonde. Reapply the new formula. Check frequently. Less processing time may be required.
  • Next time, add 1/2 to 1 oz. of a warm, gold, or neutral tone to original formula, or select a different shade. Strand test to determine correct color selection and development time.